Mario Moreno Moyano, creative soul of Ottavio Nuccio Gala, explains the advantages of buying your groom suit online on www.ottavionuccio.com
Everybody has size 50
What can we do for letting them to be elegant?
There’s only one solution!
Example of a man with a height of 1.80 and “Athletic” complexion size 50
Please note his heart of waistline, elbow and knees. Is it possible to cut these sleeves for more than 2cm, the jacket for more than 4 cm and the pants for more than 7 cm without losing proportion and balance of elegance? No, it wouldn’t be possible. Buttonholes of sleeves will fall outside of proportion, the cuff will be too large and lose the tasteful narrowness of the elbow. This mending is very common in “low cost” shops, as we can see in wedding photos, including of VIPs, with cutted sleeves with no sartorial taste at all.
(This size 50, is the easiest to find in shops, as is the basis on which everyone works in tailoring)
Example of a man from a height of 1’70 and “Athletic (short)” complexion size 50
Note that this man has a proportioned chest of a size 50, but he has no proportion with lenghts of size 50 above-mentioned. If this customer will wear a normal 50, you’ll see that there are 5 cm more of sleeve: in this case you don’t have to cut sleeve for cuff but you must cut it from the center in order to don’t lose proportions and this is impossible. How do they solve this in a “low cost” shop? in a very easy way, cutting 5 cm from the cuff and leaving sleeve totally out of proportion (as we can see in many picture of tabloids with rented morning suits)
It’s also logical that this man 1’70 tall needs a jacket shorter than 5 or 7 cm. How do they solve this in a “low cost” shop? Directly cutting the bottom and the groom will appear even shorter than he is, with too low pockets and a ridiculous back like a flying tail.
Example of a man from a height of 1’90-1’95 with a “Super Size” complexion size 50
This man has a proportioned chest of a size 50, but you need to give him proportion to his height, and it will be necessary lengthen sleeve of 4 or 5 cm, jacket of 5 or 7 cm and pants of 7 or 10 cm. How do they solve this in a “low cost” shop?
By taking everything from sleeves, from buttom of the jacket and of the pants putting an insert of fabric inside. The correct and essential way would be a Bespoke (custom tailored suit) service, because this man has his proportion of waistline, elbow and knees; you can’t cut bottom for more than you should, lengthen it for more than 2 cm without losing point of excellence and elegance.
Example of a man from a height of 1’70 and “Regular short” complexion size 50
Note that this man has a proportioned chest of a size 50, but waist and hip of 2 sizes more than the standard one. How do they solve this in a “low cost” shop? They will give him a size 54 cutting the sleeves, the bottom of the jacket and the hem of pants, spotting the same problem of fitting than the one above-mentioned, but this time is more evident because each part of the suit is 2 sizes bigger: shoulders, cuff of sleeves, bottom of jacket and hem of pants. Definitely: too large shoulders, elbow point, knees, thigh etc. losing the taste of elegance and excellence. The only solution for this man is a Bespoke (custom tailored).
As we already said before reffering to the Bespoke service, we can create a virtual 3D dummy following 5 simple measurements and tailor a suit according to the morphology of each customer, not only using a unique size for different morphologies.
Bespoke repair service
We can observe the ham form, called so by classical tailors, which can’t be repaired in any way. The only possible solution when you have to adjust sleeves for more or less than 2 cm, is tailoring a made-to-measure Bespoke suit on www.ottavionuccio.com
The front of a jacket, as we can observe in the paper pattern, has proportioned measures with waist; if we inappropriately cut the lenght, we’ll lose the balancing position of pockets and buttons.
Trouser is proportioned with height from waist to ankle, and also its width is proportioned from waist to hem. If we don’t respect central point of the knee we will lose the balance of sartorial taste and the man will appear shorter. As above-mentioned, we won’t cut for more than 4 or 5 cm.
This is the generic presentation of different repairs that each morphology has, for example: low shoulders, high shoulders, humpback shoulders or desproportioned hip; all of them has to be taken in count in a Bespoke suit. You won’t find all of these little details in a “low cost” due to high price of the work of an expert.
In our shops spread of all Europe, experts in the field will know how to do for tailoring a Bespoke suit; with your computer or smartphone from our online platform www.ottavionuccio.com sending 5 simple measurements, you will receive your Bespoke suit (custom made) directly to your address.