Monthly Archives: July 2014

Wedding suits from XIV century to the present day

Wedding suits are definitely the more elegant and beautiful garment in men’s formal wear that one man can wear. But, when did its origins date back to?

The first news we have about formal suits derive from France, during the reign of Louis XIV at Versailles. He had imposed a dress code that every man had to respect in the court: a coat or a jacket, a waistcoat, pants that came up to the knee, a handkerchief and a wig. This was definitely overly flashy look, but it was the founder of the whole men’s formal wear.

 

 

After France it was the turn of England and the reign of Charles II: he took the cue from the etiquette set by Louis XIV and proposed a new version of it, more modern and more suited to the so sober English spirit.

 

The most important revolutions have occurred right in the UK and, although it is difficult to imagine that a simple black suit of today in 2 pieces can be derived from the colors of the French court and from the wigs, this is the truth. At the end of the nineteenth century things began to change, and innovations of that time (use of steam, invention of the modern tie, gradual disappearance of waistcoats and hats) began to give birth to the so-called modern suit.

This type of suit was originally called Suit for halland they had no case to which occasions were they were wearing it: the suit was fine both for ceremonies in the Church and the countryside or the beach. Between the nineteenth and twentieth century, the Suit for hall has spread more and more, sometimes even in place of the wedding suits, until get to the point where anyone could had at least one at home to wear it on Sunday in the Church.

 

 

In that period the suit for hall, which actually consisted of a simple formal dress used in conjunction with the waistcoat and this habit continued until the Second World War. Unfortunately, the less affluent classes did not have the opportunity to buy more suits for a single person, then the wedding suit consisted in the usual daily suit described above.

The trend of that moment was the double-breasted jacket, and the only way to distinguish a wedding suitfrom a suit for hallwas the presence or absence of accessories: vest, shirt with double cuff, cufflinks and cravat (accessory par excellence of the ceremony of that time).

Nowadays, fortunately, people who can not afford two different suits in their closet are much less numerous and, therefore, more and more people have purchased two different suits: one for everyday use and one for the ceremony (better if between the two one is single-breasted and the other one is double-breasted).

 

wedding suits

 

Usually, the wedding suit of a man is composed of several pieces, some of which are essential, while others are to be regarded as mere accessories, and therefore optional. The pieces that make up a wedding suit are:

Jacket: long or short; with 1 or 2 buttons; in black, gray, blue, white or ivory;

Trousers: the same fabric and color of the jacket or in contrast;

Shirt: double wrist or simple wrist; in cotton or silk sateen; classic or diplomatic collar; Waistcoat: it can follow the color and fabric of the suit or be in contrast; can be smooth, embroidered or brocade;

Accessory for the neck: tie, cravat, ascot, foulard, bowtie, etc.;

Shoes: usually black but are allowed in other colors, to be combined with belt;

Other accessories: cufflinks, pin, handkerchief and pocket watch;

As regards the colors, it is possible to exploit the blue at any time of the day; black is definitely a symbol of elegance but it would be more suitable for evening ceremonies, as well as the dark gray; light gray, however, is suitable for ceremonies in the morning. Each color needs the best combinations, colors that stand out if matched each other.

All these suits can be 2 or 3 piecesif they were 3 pieces, the vest would donate that extra touch of elegance that each groom should have; In addition, who wear the vest will not be cold during the winter weddings and can hide a little belly.

 

wedding suits

Wedding suits: how to wear them?

Every man should always follow his own personality, even and especially on the day of his wedding. However, there being walked through the field of formality”, there are some rules or small details from which no one is able to leave them out of consideration. Each “piece” of the suit has its own rules, and below we will analyze the jacket, the trousers and the waistcoat.

Jacket: can be short (not longer than the thumb of the hand when you are standing with the arms stretched out to the sides), frock coat (not longer than the whole hand) or tailcoat and morning suits (knee-length jackets). All the fit must be perfect, from the neck to the shoulder to the length of the sleeve: there should be no wrinkles or bumps. The lapels should be well ironed because they might not appear raised and behind the jacket usually there is only one central opening and a single button on the front.

Trousers: they must neither be too tight nor too loose, because in each of these two cases would be uncomfortable. The hem of the pants must come to touch the shoe, even better if it comes up to the heel. They can be worn with a belt or with suspenders.

Waistcoat: is the accessory par excellence for wedding suits; it can be smooth, asymmetric or double-breasted. If it is smooth the last button should never be buttoned up, while in the other two models of waistcoat buttons must be all buttoned. Can be enriched with a chain of crystals that reminds to the old pocket watches.

abbinamenti

 

The collections of 2015 by Mario Moreno Moyano, creative soul of Ottavio Nuccio Gala, offering customers a wide range of different suits, some of them very modern, others very classic. The rules that apply on formal wear of a man since the fourteenth century should not be lost, and the company Ottavio Nuccio Gala makes treasure of every tradition.

Mario Moreno Moyano

 

 

Wedding suits and more: masculine Bon Ton

Should men need to take care of their image? If they do, do they must do so only on the day of their marriage when wearing their wedding suits or do they have to do it every day? Do women agree that their men are so careful about their image?

Doubtless our age is the most maniacally careful to image, where everyone fears, but at the same time research, the opinion of others for any detail: a new shirt, the haircut, the latest tattoo etc.. Vanity is no longer a purely feminine sphere, but has also reached the opposite universe, and it was swept in full.

As well as for women, men also can choose the extent to which care for their physical appearance and overall image: there are men who choose to remain as they are from the morning after getting up, others who choose to have a few small shrewdnesses as a small gesture of self-love, others who choose to treat well the body or clothing and, finally, men who have attention to every detail that affects them.

From Shabby to metrosexual man, even the man is claiming his image and no longer accept to be considered less important than a woman, or less sensitive to aesthetics.

Men, during their wedding day, wear wedding suits that aren’t simple suits suitable every day at work. On that day, the groom is under the spotlight as much as the bride, and will star in many photos that will last a lifetime. The event not only requires a proper suit, but also that all the details are correctly fitted.

The man who is about to get married has to be flawless. As for the face it is advisable a perfectly shaved skin, or if you just don’t want to give up to beard or mustache, at least the lines must be accurate. A good aftershave is appropriate for the occasion, as well as a haircut a few days before the ceremony to ensure that the hair take its natural shape.

 

 

The groom’s hands must be well groomed, as well as the neck. Almost all grooms tend to start a diet a few months before the wedding to be able to lose a few extra pounds: the important thing is do not overdo it.

The face must look rested and fresh, this is why many men use creams specifically designed for men’s skin leaving the skin soft and smooth. For the more picky, a deep facial cleansing a week before the wedding.

These attentions are now daily bread for many men in the world, not only for the newlyweds, but are still in force general rules applicable to all which distinguish a gentleman from a man who tries to appear what is not.

Useful tips: wedding suits and casual suits

Below is a small list of adevices of etiquette for men given by Mario Moreno Moyano, creative soul of Ottavio Nuccio Gala: how you should wear a suit, how to be matched with the accessories and the attitude to be taken at every occasion to be considered as a real men.

  • The jackets with 2 or 3 buttons must always have the last button unbuttoned; is a small shrewdness that denotes the knowledge of the rules of etiquette and it’s a tradition with a quite funny origin. It’s rumored, in fact, that this custom comes from King Edward VII, who, being too fat, couldn’t never buttoned the last button, and his subjects converted it into a touch of elegance and followed his example.
    wedding suits
  • The same rule applies to waistcoats, while double-breasted jackets are always worn buttoned, even when seated.

 

Wedding suits

 

  • If a man is wearing a formal suit, it’s best not to flaunt large logos of brands because it’s not appropriate with the style of the moment; logos in sight are good for casual clothing of for beachwear, and should be appropriate also have no labels in evidence.
  • Shoes and belt should usually be coordinated, preferably black. If the shoes are not black, the belt can be combined with other accessories of the look.
  • The shirt cuff should get out of the sleeve of the jacket of 1 cm or 1.5 cm. The rule is that the distance between the cuff of the shirt and the jacket sleeve is the same that elapses for the stick out of the shirt collar from the collar of the jacket, behind the neck.
  • Classic trousers should fall on the heel of the shoe, creating a small fold, and must be neither longer nor shorter than that. Short trousers are allowed only with a more casual look and the pants have a turn-up.
  • The width of the shoulders of the jacket should be the same as the shoulder of the customer. A jacket too small or too large is not a symbol of elegance and risks to ridicule the entire image.
  • Many people think that the final tip of the tie should reach to touch the belt, or at least the waist of the trousers. The ideal thing would be that the tie arrived down to a few cm before of the trousers.
  • Short-sleeved shirts are officially banned, it’s much better to wear a long-sleeved shirt with flap rather than a short-sleeved one; even less welcome is the image of a man in shirt and tie, but without a jacket.
  • The short-sleeved white T-shirt, or even worse, a white tank top under the shirt should be avoided because it would be immediately noticed under the sunlight , and certainly they don’t represent the maximum of elegance.
  • Shoes should always be in good condition and clean: dirty shoes with holes of are a symptom of a scruffy man who has no care of his image.

These are just a small elegant tricks that an man should take. There are many others, such as the handkerchief in the breast pocket of the jacket, the open buttonholes, the width of the trouser leg, the height of the rim etc.. that serve to enhance the overall presentation, and that can be noticed at first glance.

 

Wedding suits

A man who takes care of his body and that is careful to his look, is a man who knows how to give the right value to his own person and that will always be well seen by anyone.

Mario Moreno Moyano

 

 

Analysis of the market of wedding suits

Mario Moreno Moyano, creative soul of Ottavio Nuccio Gala, says that the wedding suits‘ market has changed a lot over the last 20 years. The main change is due to the fact that textile sector is getting more and more industrialized, leaving little room for originality and creativity.

What was once a niche market in which the worldwide excellences could assert, especially those of Made in Italy, today is becoming an industry of mass production just like the others; like other sectors has also the huge amount of imported suits that are on the market today.

Unfortunately, many people don’t know the wedding protocol and then believe in what the marketing more frequently suggests them, thinking it as the right look, or even the only possible one, that could be fine for a groom.

Almost 80% of the brands specialized in men’s formal wear have a highly standardized product, with a few variations of color and almost no variation of fabric. Analyzed trade marks have some gaps in these fields: first and foremost the quality of the fabric, as well as the lack of originality and the too deep conformity.

Fabrics mainly marketed are almost completely synthetic, heavy and rich of static electricity. Suits are made of 100% polyester fibers and acetate, which, during the day of the ceremony, will be uncomfortable and too hot, resulting in a higher level of stress for the groom who will be looking forward to take it off from him.

These fabrics are often very shiny, give that kind of wet effect that has little to do with the elegance and style that should have a groom. In addition, the overall presentation is not the most creative because it’s all about Suits of 4 Pieces (jacket, trousers, waistcoat and cravat) made out of the same color and fabric.

The suits of 3 pieces have always existed and are very stylish, if made with appropriate fabrics, but the real Made in Italy has never contemplated the idea of an accessory of the same fabric of the suit, most importantly offering almost always the same type of accessory: the cravat.

 

 

The most beautiful accessories are those made in contrast: silk jacquard maybe, or in any case in very light fabrics to not make them look like they were made of cardboard. Excellence in this kind of combinations and in the use of fine fabrics is the company Ottavio Nuccio Gala, who has been able to realize 5 different collections, and it never been any that looked like to the other, even slightly.

 

Wedding suits

 

Matching 4 Pieces tone on tone is extremely easy, but the image of the groom who now we has for many years is always the same, and it’s unthinkable that after a few generations the suits could easily be re-used, because they are very similar.

People who don’t have the opportunity to inquire or to be able to see a lot of proposals, they thinks it’s the only way that a groom should get dressed, and then they don’t even pose the problem of finding other possibilities. So here is why the scene is so homogeneous in the field of men’s wedding suits.

 

Wedding suits for men in the global market

The prices on the market are excessively unbalanced: a low cost total look, costs to the public up to 500 Euros (assuming a notable markup for the dealer, given that the prices of production comes even just to 50 euro), while for a Made in Italy total look you have to spend about twice as much.

The competition is legitimate, but how many people know that those so cheap suits are mass produced in countries that don’t respect the basic rules of hygiene or human rights? The crisis also stems from this: countries with billions of exploited inhabitants even more than 12 hours a day to produce all equal Suits of poor quality.

The problem in Italy is found in the choice of the producers to accept this compromise and sell in their stores only imported Suits, not purchasing Made in Italy brands anymore; All of course is made to increase earnings, but decreasing the quality of service and accentuating the crisis of companies in the country.

You can’t walk into a Ottavio Nuccio Gala store and expect a confrontation with an imported low cost suit, because you have to be able to recognize the true excellence of Made in Italy, you have to know the difference (and touch it with your hand) between a polyester and a cool-wool, between viscose and a jacquard silk.

Fabrics present in the showroom of Ottavio Nuccio Gala are of excellence quality, and fabrics are not the only thing who vary, but there are also the models: morning suits, tuxedo, tails, redingotes … a wide selection to meet every kind of taste and personality.

 

Wedding suits

 

After choosing a suit made of a cool and breathable fabric, suitable for summer ceremonies, there is a wide range of accessories to choose from.

 

 

The groom doesn’t necessarily must wear a cravat made out of the same fabric of the suit with a clip closure and a big clasp in the center. Mario Moreno Moyano, creative soul of Ottavio Nuccio Gala, suggests different options, depending on the type of wedding suits or the personality of the groom: tie, ascot, bowtie, foulard, plastron, etc., all made in contrast, never identical to the suit.

 

Wedding suits

 

A product of excellence is already born knowing it can’t have the visibility of a product of large-scale distribution, but this doesn’t mean that it should be considered improper, when it should be the opposite. Made in Italy has always been a symbol of excellence, and must continue to be recognized as such.

Ottavio Nuccio Gala is a company with upright values and principles for almost 20 years, which continues in the promotional campaign of Made in Italy in search of that niche of customers who are able to still appreciate the taste of a bespoke suit, or a made-to-measure one.

For Mario Moreno Moyano, creative soul of Ottavio Nuccio Gala, the main goal is not to sell large quantities of low-quality suits, but knowing that every customer was fully satisfied with his choice.

Mario Moreno Moyano (1)

Are the tuxedos considered as wedding suits?

Can the tuxedo be placed in wedding suits‘ category? This is an issue on which there have been many debates, opinions are in contrast, and often with stiffness. Mario Moreno Moyano, the creative soul of Ottavio Nuccio Gala, believes that the tuxedo is one of the models of formal suit for men of the most elegant ever, and that is definitely appropriate for a groom, but only if the ceremony is celebrated in the afternoon.

As well as the morning suit is the outfit per excellence for morning ceremonies, the tailcoat is the suit par excellence for evening ceremonies. The groom who doesn’t want to wear a morning suit, but seeks at all costs a model that can remind it, chooses to wear a redingote. The groom who doesn’t want to wear a tailcoat because he believes it’s overly formal for his way of being, what should he wears on the day of his marriage, if not a tuxedo?

Ottavio Nuccio Gala is a company specialized in men’s formal wear and Mario Moreno Moyano wouldn’t have created a collection purely composed by Tuxedo, Black Tie collection, if this type of suit wasn’t suitable for grooms.

 

Wedding suits

 

The tuxedo, as well as the morning suit, comes from British culture and it was used by the gentlemen of the nineteenth century as an evening jacket for dinner (also called the “dinner jacket”), or to smoke. Another version of this jacket was the traditional gown worn by aristocrats, often in velvet with lapels in contrast and trimmings instead of the covered button, which made people seemed even more important and wealthy.

The tuxedo can be of 3 types: with shawl lapels, with peak lapel and double-breasted. There isn’t a hierarchy in terms of elegance, all 3 are at an equal level: the only thing that matters is the client’s taste and personality.

 

 

Tuxedo lapels are always in contrast, in silk satin, and even the strap of the trousers (with no belt loops) and the sidebands are in contrast, even if they aren’t always present.

The shirt of a tuxedo can be of twisted” cotton with pique or pleated bib, double cuff for cufflinks and the collar can be the diplomatic or the spread one.

The bowtie is the most appropriate accessory for a tuxedo, and it’s preferable that it be Self knotted because it’s more vaporous and not flat like a bow tie already knotted; In addition, those who have a bit of experience in this field, recognizes a bow tie manually knotted at first sight, and it’s certainly a symbol of elegance and savoir faire.

Another accessory that can be worn with a tuxedo jacket is the waistcoat, but only if Shawldouble-breasted or with a wide neckline. An example of extreme elegance and extravagance may be a non-black jacket, waistcoat and trousers in pied poule, diplomatic shirt and black bow tie.

 

Wedding suits

There are tuxedos of various fabrics and colors, and they can all be categorized as wedding suits. Who wants to wear the classic tuxedo will opt for an absolute blackwith black cummerbund and bowtie, side stripe on trousers in satin, diplomatic shirt with pleated bib and lace up shoes in black paint.

For all other grooms who want to escape the traditional rules, there are different degrees of personalization of the look. For example, you can keep the black suit with diplomatic shirt, but wear colorful bow tie and cummerbund; other variant is the one that includes black trousers and blue, white or red jacket with black lapels in contrast; and again: jacket and trousers in velvet of different colors and so on.

 

Wedding suits

 

These are just some examples of variations of the tuxedo that give a touch to personality and vivacity to the suit, but always respecting the rules established by the formal dress code.

The tuxedos are the favorite wedding suits for VIP

The most important thing to emphasize is that the tuxedo has become an integral part of the world of men’s formal wear, not only for the guests but also for the groom. Until a few years ago was seen as suit only suitable on the red carpet, for gala ceremonies, award ceremonies or for cocktail parties.

Today, the trend of getting married in tuxedo is becoming bigger and bigger, and also many celebrities choose a tuxedo for their wedding. The actor Adam Shulman get married with a tuxedo, husband of the famous Anne Hathaway; also singer Michael Buble has chosen this type of suit, as well as Prince William in his change of suit for the evening reception when he married the beautiful Kate Middleton; also the Italian nobles choose the tuxedo: an example was the marriage between Ludovica del Secco and Gianalberto Scarpa Bastieri.

There are many other examples of grooms who have chosen the tuxedo, but these 4 examples make us realize that letting the groom wear this type of suit is an opinion now shared by many groups of people: singers, actors, aristocrats and even royal families .

Many people think that wearing a tuxedo for their reception isn’t the right choice because you run the risk of look like to the waiters in the room. With all due respect to those who do that job, but the quality of a tuxedo for a groom and his accessories can never be exchanged with those of a waiter’s outfit, it’s a thing you will notice at first glance.

Who wears a tuxedo exudes a good knowledge of the rules of etiquette for formal attire, as it’s one of the suits with more “restrictions” at all. Who admits tuxedo among the wedding suits is a very smart man who knows how to give himself importance and that will be perfect in the most important day of his life.

Mario Moreno Moyano, the creative soul of Ottavio Nuccio Gala, in its new 2015 collection, present as soon as possible on the web and in stores, proposes a tuxedo as important garment for the ceremony, in the classic version but also in alternative versions with different colors, patterns and models to meet every possible imaginary .

 

 

Wedding suits: latercomers not admitted

The habit of being late can affect people with different characteristics, which we will examine in this post. Is absolutely forbidden to be late when you’re wearing your wedding suits, that is, the day of the wedding. Any category of men you might belong to, on that day delays are not allowed.

Being punctual shows not only your organization but it’s a sense of responsibility and respect for others that  won’t definitely go unnoticed. As long as there were no wrist watches, smartphones, or at least a time that was valid for the whole community, being late could not create hardships; the society of our days travels at such an high speed that we can’t afford the luxury of taking it easy, but we must do the opposite: groped to anticipate not to succumb.
wedding suits

Late arrivals to a dinner with a woman can be seen as a sign of narcissism or she may feel inferior or not worthy of your time; delay to an appointment for a job interview will certainly be a point against you compared to other people who have supported the same interview, but on time; not be present in the Church at the scheduled time on the day of your wedding may compromise the entire ceremony.

Wear your wedding suits about an hour before the ceremony would be the ideal to avoid problems, partly because there will always be a small detail which must be settled and it’ll take time.

 

wedding suits

 

The causes of a chronic delay are due to critical personality , which can be divided into five categories:

 

VIOLENT / APPARENT

This is a category of people with a psychological conflict that drives them to arrive late because they think they are (violent) or want to appear (apparent) superior. Arrive earlier for them is like demonstrate their submission, and it’s always a battle being able to arrive later than the person who is waiting for us.

Classic examples of this kind of latecomers are the women against a suitor or the quarter hour of academic university barons against their students.

 

IRRATIONAL

The irrationals commit existential choices in their being late: they are people for whom everything always goes well, they consider the events in their idealization and don’t take account of contingencies that could happen and that they would be late.

To solve this kind of delay you should calculate the accelerated schedule to arrive on time to the appointment and then apply a statistical correction based on possible contingencies that might happen. The irrational people think that arriving early is a waste of time, but the problem is they do not know how to handle advances.

 

WEAK

The weaks are using the stratagem of the delay as a defense against stress. For them, any maturity is a source of stress, and instead to organize their time, they don’t know how to react, choose to be latecomers and avoid the problem. Their strategy doesn’t come to any good result, as there is unfortunately not possible to eliminate the stressing stimuli.

The moment they are forced to deal with a stressful situation will almost certainly collapse.

UNDECIDEDThe undecided is a latecomer affected by an operational block: any action he should do to arrive at an appointment is seen as a terrible choice between several alternatives, among which the undecided can’t choose. This indecision causes, of course, a delay even though it’s often not caused intentionally.The classic example of a chronic undecided latecomer is the woman who doesn’t know what to wear before a night out or a dinner.

 

UNWILLING

The unwillings are latecomers with poor mental and physical responsiveness and therefore they can’t control their own body. They are usually those who can’t get out of bed in the morning, not necessarily only in the early morning, because they aren’t able to see the awakening as the beginning of a new beautiful day. The awakening is a synonym for punishment of the body and so laziness prevails.

This category includes also those who have a weak personality, without the necessary willpower that can prevail.

 

Whatever your personality is, you must always have a valid reason for being late, otherwise it’s if you’re implicity saying:My time is more precious than yours!“, and there’s nothing worse than arrogance.

Sometimes, however, not being on time can also serve to understand the thoughts of the person you’re waiting for, even before he arrives. To be late may also means that the person doesn’t want to go where he should go, or who doesn’t think it’s a good idea to go there. In this way we launch implicit messages that a careful observer would know how to grasp.

According to psychologist Neel Burton, in one of his psychological studies, the delay is not counted either in minutes or hours but according to the dissatisfaction and restlessness of who is waiting for us. When we arrived a quarter of an hour after the appointment time but our companion is quite quiet and peaceful, then that may not be considered delay, because it didn’t cause any discomfort.

Latecomers with their wedding suits on

The Neapolitan Smorfia, the most famous series of numbers to interpret your own dreams and win the lottery, states that dream of being late to the wedding is a symptom of envy that surrounds the couple; dream that the groom arrives late or doesn’t arrive at all means that the bride is experiencing a fear of possible abandonment by their partner.

In any event, many people think that to bride are granted 20 minutes of delay, but it’s not so because the etiquette states that the bride shouldn’t arrive more than 10 minutes late.

 

wedding suits

 

Hopefully this post will be suitable for fewer and fewer people among our readers because, as already mentioned at the beginning of this article, being late on the day when you are wearing your wedding suits would be an abomination.