Monthly Archives: February 2014

The History of the Tie

The Tie: a must for a real Gentleman

The origin of the tie goes back to the kingdom of Louis XIII of France. During this period, the king of France was recruiting soldiers from Croatia who used to wear neckerchiefs knotted around their necks to protect themselves from the cold, that were known as “echarpes”, which they called “Hrvatska” (it would be the name of Croatia in Croatian). The knotted it forming a small rose, dropping the extremities on the chest. French people liked the “croatta” so much that they adopted it right away by calling it “cravat” and spread it throughout the world.

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Its pragmatic use was born, basically, with the aim of covering the buttons of the shirt. Towards the end of the seventeenth century, was imposed the habit of gently tie the tie around the neck with the two extremities tucked into one of the eyelets of the jacket or fixed by a brooch. Since 1650, it was adopted by the court of kind Louis XIV, where everybody was competing to be the most elegant, adding laces and silk ribbons, an original fashion style that soon expanded all over Europe. During the French Revolution, the tie became a real status symbol and for the first time hired a political value: the revolutionary wore it in black, while the counter wore it in white.

Later came the moment of the “incroyables”, smart and extravagant people with a huge tie that reached almost to hide the chin and the lower lip.

In this period the figure of Beau Brummel was very important; he needed the aid of two porters to tie the tie. He introduced the use of starch to maintain the stiffness of the fabric.

In the early years of the nineteenth century, the shape of the tie began to get closer to the current one, although it was still very voluminous and existed only in three colors: gray, black and white. Fashion had begun to homologate except for a few exceptions, such as the lavallière type, characterized by two equal parts in width and length, which became the emblem of the revolutionary artists.

By reducing the size of the neck and the shirt, was necessary a single lap around the neck to tie a tie. Those were the years when the tie was spread all over the world. The types of existing ties were nude or large tie, the bow-tie and the ascot.

In the Napoleonic age he always wore a black tie with white borders, until the morning of June 18th 1815 he decided to change tie, then losing the battle of Waterloo, according to Mr. Beausset declaration, prefect of the palace. From that moment, the art of knotting around the neck a piece of canvas was converted into the strongest sign of elegance in menswear.

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As early as in “Art de se mettre The Cravate”, published in Paris in 1827 and attributed to “Honoré de Balzac”, it stands the importance of this item of clothing, with the description of 22 different ways to tie a tie such as the most common are, for example:

Windsor

Very triangular knot, thick and large. It is the most appropriate knot for special occasions. Very English, the name was popularized by the Duke of Windsor. It is a very voluminous knot, so it is recommended to use it with shirt with large necks.

Demi Windsor

It is the knot proper for daily use. It is similar to Windsor knot however is not so large and it is easier to realize. It can be used with little either big ties. It has an elegant shape, triangular, and it is recommended to wear with a shirt with a classic collar or an open collar.

Simple

It’s a classic knot in which you can never go wrong, easy to implement and for this is the most used. It brings a touch of youth to the top of the suit for its slight inclination that breaks the geometry and the usual framing of the knot of the tie. It is suitable for all types of neck shirt and tie to any width, since it is tight with small ties and wider with big ties.

Pratt

It’s a tie knot tidy and fairly wide, though not as wide as the Windsor knot. It is suitable for any shirt and tie both wide made by light fabrics to moderated.

Petit Noued

This little knot is used primarily with large ties and shirts with narrow neck, avoiding long and large necks.

Double

It is similar to the simple knot but with a second round. It looks more impressive but it goes very well with All shirts and ties, except with the very large ones.

Italien

This tie knot apparently does not seem to be perfectly in the center. It is very “Italian Style”, for all lovers of the “Dolce Vita”.

Onassis

Popularized by the Greek magnate Aristotle Onassis in the mid-twentieth century, even if we are not sure that he is the inventor. It is one of the most modern knots , original and elegant. It is recommended the use of the Needle Onasys to hold the tie so that the knot is stopped without changing its shape.

Atlantique o Trinity

The Trinity knot has a different look. To do that you need a good workout, even if it is not so difficult. It diverts the attention from the traditional knot. It is a “fresh” knot suitable for a party in an outdoor local or in a club.

In the second half of the 19th Century, during the industrial period that revolutionized the textile sector, the functional tie (cravatte) appeared with a longer and narrower shape. The forerunners of the tie, such as are known to us today, are those used in clubs or in schools, one example: in 1880 the members of the University of Oxford laced the ribbons of the hats around the neck. So, on June 25 of that year they created the first tie for clubs and, later, the idea spread to other clubs, universities and colleges.

In 1926, Jesse Langsdorf, an inventor from New York, developed a method of cutting the tie with the least possible waste of canvas. The solution was to cut a 45 degree angle on the drawing, in a nutshell cut on the bias. In addition, the silk was not cut in one piece, but in 3, which were then sewed in a subsequent process, up to nowadays, which has become the accessory par excellence of the elegance of a real Gentleman.

Ottavio Nuccio Gala, from its origins, made this accessory to become one of the jewels of his collections, employing exclusive fabrics of jacquard in pure silk, originated in Como, the cradle of silk, 100% Made in Italy.

We show you some of our models and patterns.

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