The Excellence of the Wedding Suit: Morning Suit
The morning suit is historical, it was created in the 19th Century in England, when the cavalry of the British court wore it as an official outfit or as a clothing for knights on horseback. Because the jacket is opened at the back and therefore is more comfortable to mount the saddle. Since it was worn by English knights during the hunting, it became one of the most elegant models for men and it was even worn during ceremonies or official events.
The morning suit that we know nowadays is exclusively used for weddings in the morning, that are celebrated in the church by families with a medium high standard of living and with traditional tastes. Some middle-class families and the new rich, would like to improvise a wedding with morning suits without knowing the culture of elegance and tailored taste. Most of those people do not know the dressing code and without any scruples they rent a morning suit, already worn so many times, and… “Long live the newlyweds!”
They think that no-one will notice it, but they are wrong, because it is immediately noticed when someone pretends to be what he actually is not, because it shows the opposite effect, a “I want to, but I cannot”, and only God can forgive a badly dressed groom.
Elegance is something sacred and for this reason, either you respect it or it is better to buy an imported suit of 150 €, because you will be more dignified and at least it will be yours and you could wear it freely. I sincerely advise you neither to imitate those behaviors nor to wear a model of a suit at any cost, because it will be an unforgettable day, and you cannot start the story of your new life with a rented suit. The photos will remain forever, and when you are going to watch them again, you will regret not to have a bespoke morning suit made by measure. At the end the difference of this expense will not change your life, we are talking of 500 to 600 € additionally, compared to the 10.000 € or 20.000 € that you spend for a wedding.
If you choose the style of the classical morning suit, you should keep in mind that also the relatives and the close friends are subject to the morning dress code, wearing a morning suit. In this case renting a morning suit is justified, because they are not going to be the protagonists.
Even though, a person that has traveled the world, knows that it is not a bad idea to have a nice morning suit in the wardrobe as well as a tuxedo for special occasions, because it will pay itself off the first 3 occasions when you wear it.
If, on the contrary, you really liked the “monochrome morning dress”, the guests and the family are free to wear a morning suit or a tailor styled suit. This type of morning suit has been inspired by the age of the end of the century.
The choice of the fabric is essential for your wedding suit, because only by touch you can feel the quality of a suit, and the touch should be light and silky. To feel comfortable I suggest:
For Autumn – Winter Weddings: a weight not exceeding 380 g/m2 and a minimum of 280 g/m2.
For Spring – Summer Weddings: a cool-wool or similar fabrics due to their lightness: 280 gr/m2 that are suitable for all seasons.
It is very important to pay attention to this detail, because a bad choice can ruin such a day full of happiness.
The color par excellence for the classical morning suit is black, but also grey or dark blue are allowed, however, you have to bear in mind that the classical style is not to be exceeded by trying to make fashion, because the morning suit was created as a classical model and is doesn’t need to be re-invented, just a touch of color is needed.
For the monochrome style, the colors can be black, blue, dark grey, medium and light, Fil-a-Fil, herringbone pattern, fine stripes or diplomatic with stripes of 10 mm not too pronounced.
The waistcoat is very important for the ceremony, it enables you to wear an opened jacket and you can move more comfortably. There are several options: The diplomatic, i.e., is black with white profiles.
If you want a touch of color, without exceeding the rules, you can wear pearl gray or pearly white, both colors are suitable for the wedding.
If you want to add a touch of British color, you can play with red, grass green, violet, blue or beige.
If you want a touch of nobility, you can use a baroque jacquard in pure silk worldwide exclusive.
Another elegant combination is the black jacket with waistcoat and trousers “hound’s-tooth”, black/white or also a “Prince of Wales”.
The shirt can be “double twisted” cotton, smooth satin gala, fine Oxford or micro patterns, and if you want to avoid ironing, a cotton satin. Preferably double cuff for cufflinks and a classical spread collar. The wing collar could be worn with the classical morning suit, but only if it is combined with a plastron and a tie pin with a pearl or a coral cameo.
The tie for the classical morning suit, except the classic plastron, will be 8.5 cm wide. For the monochrome style, you can wear a tie or an ascot in a multitude of colors: blue or black with whites micro designs, geometric pattern, micro designs in blue, grey, red, pink, violet, green, pearl, gold or light blue, although the classical are pearl grey and ivory. Black stripes on a light background are also very elegant, and an important point to keep in mind is that you should never match a wing collar with a tie.
The suspenders are recommended, especially if you have a little belly, because they keep trousers always straight and avoid ugly creases.
For the shoes, the most appropriate model for the morning suit is the classic Oxford, in leather shiny black with laces and 6 holes, and the leather sole must be scratched to prevent slipping. I never recommend a rubber sole, because it doesn’t breathe. It would be elegant to choose shoes that have a heel half in leather and half in rubber, but with the sole entirely in leather. This is the excellence of dressing elegantly and in pure Gentleman style.
If the morning suit is in the monochrome style with any type of pattern, the most appropriate shoes are the Derby models, always with the same quality characteristics of the Oxford model. With this type of morning coat, you can also use brown “testa di moro” or chocolate, which will add a touch of color without ruining the classical style.
The hat, cane and gloves are a free choice and are not rigorously required, but if you know how to wear them, they are very elegant. It’s a very English habit because the morning suit is the uniform to assist to the horse races, and the weather in the English countryside it’s cold and rainy. The tradition of wearing a hat prevails in the English culture, in fact, an Englishman never forget the bowler hat, the gloves and the umbrella in his classical clothing, but as I said, it is not strictly necessary.
When you wear the top hat, you have to know that you should take it off by entering the church or when you greet a lady, but for the rest of time you have to keep it on, because if you buy it to hold it in your hands, it is useless to buy one.
Another very important detail that needs to be considered is the location and the time that the ceremony and the reception will take place. As I mentioned earlier, the morning suit is a wedding suit exclusively for weddings in the morning, that are celebrated in a church of baroque or gothic style and if the family has classical traditions the morning suit should also be worn by the father, the brothers and by the closest friends. If after the ceremony the banquet continues until night and is a cocktail party, it would be advisable to change the suit and to wear something more appropriate for the evening, like a dark suit or tuxedo with cummerbund and a bow tie.