Category Archives: Gentleman @en

Gentleman Collection

Preview Gentleman Collection 2017

My proposals for the grooms, groomsmen and guests of 2017 Collections will be mainly based on the excellence of the fabrics, the traditional tailoring with touches of color in its coordinations, in the richness of pure silk and the softness of pure wool.

The shapes proposed in the Gentleman Collection are mildly slim, without losing the rigorous elegance of a bespoke suit, with slightly narrow shoulders and wide armholes. Lapels with rounded tips and slightly wider and narrower sides to highlight the shapes of athletic bodies. Of course, for the men from the less athletic physique, there are the so called “Conformato Drop 5” which are cut in order not to miss the beauty of the lines.

Colors that I propose for the red label “Gentleman” are: black color as a star, the blue declined in its three variants of royal blue, navy blue and electric blue and various gray like charcoal gray, gunmetal gray , medium gray and pearl gray. These colors are suitable for weddings in the garden or civil marriages from classic cut without too many compromises due to the protocol.

They are elegant suits also useful for everyday use after the ceremony. In this collection you can create four different morphological configurations: supersize, athletic, regular and oversize. Within these configurations there are 3 sub-categories: long, regular and short.

To offer our precious customers this complex and exceptional service we can count on a network of #resellers in Europe and on our online sales direct service. Dear customers, friends and followers, today we only talked about a topic: the #excellence of elegance and good manners of the noble tailoring, but I will continue … soon!

Mario Moreno Moyano

gentleman
groom

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

silk

 

 

Customized handcrafted fashion workshop

Trying on a bespoke suit of excellence realized for an important event in a unique sensation. You will feel like a real main character of the drama and, at the end of final fitting, satisfaction will be very big. Also the way of collaboration to coordination of various items will be different in such a special day.

“Gentleman” collection is realized with the best finishing and most excellent fabrics such as silk wool, mohair wool, alpaca, satin wool, Tasmania wool, extra fine wool, 100% cotton, linen or “New Performance” fabrics. Our accessories are of excellence, realized in pure silk jacquard from Como, the cradle of worldwide “Made in Italy”.

 

By Mario Moreno Moyano, creative soul of Ottavio Nuccio Gala.

 

 

 

groom suits

wedding suit

wedding suit

 

Classics Suit

For a civil wedding in the morning with a classical and traditional taste, the most appropriate would be a classical suit. In this case we could opt a suit with 3 pieces with a great tie in pure silk jacquard or even for a touch of noblesse, play with a waistcoat in pure silk jacquard with micro-pattern and a tie in the same tone.

Wedding suit

Characteristics of the model and Fabrics for a Classics Wedding Suit:

The model should have two slits, with one or two buttons, and the cut should be stylized at the right point without being exaggerated.

The choice of the fabric has to match absolutely with the model of the wedding suit that you are going to buy and also the time of the day when the ceremony will take place has to be considered, in this case:

For weddings in autumn/winter (Fabrics with a max. weight of 389 gr/m2 and a min. weight of 280 gr/m2):

Pure wool, satin super 120’s with a weight of 389 gr., in black, anthracite grey, navy or dark blue.

Groom suit

Fil-a-Fil 100% wool super 140’s in dark grey, medium grey, light grey, navy or dark blue.

Wedding suit

Fil-a-Fil wool/silk mix in dark grey, medium grey, light grey, navy or dark blue.

3 pieces wedding suit

Fil-a-Fil wool mix (silk touch) in dark grey, light grey or dark blue.

Groom suit

Mohair wool “Alpaca” in dark grey, medium grey, light grey, navy or dark blue.

3 pieces groom suit

For weddings in spring/summer (Fabrics of cool-wool or similar light fabrics with a weight of 150 gr., so called “shirt” fabrics):

Cool-wool super 100’s with a weight 280 gr. in black, navy blue or anthracite grey.

Wedding suit for men

Fil-a-Fil wool/silk mix in dark grey, medium grey, light grey or navy blue.

Groom suit

100% cotton, in white, beige or light blue.

Groom suit

Shantung Silk in white, beige or brown.

3 pieces groom suit

100%  linen in ivory or light blue.

Wedding suit

Some fabrics, that have an average weight of 280 gr., are appropriate for all the seasons and for a daily use even after the wedding. For example, herringbone pattern, marengo grey, light diplomatic stripes or fine classical stripes.

3 pieces wedding suit

Appropriate accessories for the Classics Wedding Suit: It is very important to dedicate great attention to the details, so that the accessories match perfectly, they have to be of classical style and of excellent quality.

The shirt might be made out of “double twisted” cotton, smooth satin, fine Oxford or with micro patterns like diamonds or diagonal stripes; if non iron fabric is required a mix of extra gala satin cotton; with hidden or visible button hem, preferably with double cuffs for cufflinks and with a classic collar. As a contrast, the white collar can be combined with a light blue or pink shirt to give a touch of color.

Shirt for wedding suit

The waistcoat should be in pure jacquard silk, shantung or satin, the model should have 5 buttons in mother-of-pearl or coated with fabric in the shades of light grey or ivory.

Waistcoat for groom suitWaistcoat for wedding suit

Regarding the patterns, they have to have small geometric forms or tie patterns, jacquard in English style in shades of red, purple, green or royal blue.

The tie and handkerchief might match with the tone of color, in taffeta or satin silk for the colored jacquard.

For the micro design we can play with an uncolored tone or combine the whole with the same micro design.

It is important to consider that with this kind of classic suit you should never wear a knotted-tie, but always a tie that is from 6.5 to 8.5 cm wide.

Ties for groom suit

The lapel flower does not need to match at any cost with the bride’s bouquet, often it is an exaggerated bouquet and does not coincide with the tone of color. The most suitable, whenever possible, is a camellia or a little white rose without leaves or a small branch of jasmine.

The shoes are always made out of black shiny leather and with leather soles. To avoid slipping, I advise you to roughen the soles before you wear the shoes.

Shoes for wedding suit

It is a must to wear knee high socks, always in 100% cotton lisle yarn or silk, never ever should you wear short socks, since they are not at all elegant.

The belt and the suspenders are both appropriate, but if you are not used to wear suspenders it is better to wear a belt. I recommend suspenders anyway, in order to prevent the trousers from sliding down and on the photos your figure will also appear more stylized.

 

 

Morning Suit

The Excellence of the Wedding Suit: Morning Suit

The morning suit is historical, it was created in the 19th Century in England, when the cavalry of the British court wore it as an official outfit or as a clothing for knights on horseback. Because the jacket is opened at the back and therefore is more comfortable to mount the saddle. Since it was worn by English knights during the hunting, it became one of the most elegant models for men and it was even worn during ceremonies or official events.

Wedding suit

The morning suit that we know nowadays is exclusively used for weddings in the morning, that are celebrated in the church by families with a medium high standard of living and with traditional tastes. Some middle-class families and the new rich, would like to improvise a wedding with morning suits without knowing the culture of elegance and tailored taste. Most of those people do not know the dressing code and without any scruples they rent a morning suit, already worn so many times, and… “Long live the newlyweds!”

They think that no-one will notice it, but they are wrong, because it is immediately noticed when someone pretends to be what he actually is not, because it shows the opposite effect, a “I want to, but I cannot”, and only God can forgive a badly dressed groom.

Elegance is something sacred and for this reason, either you respect it or it is better to buy an imported suit of 150 €, because you will be more dignified and at least it will be yours and you could wear it freely. I sincerely advise you neither to imitate those behaviors nor to wear a model of a suit at any cost, because it will be an unforgettable day, and you cannot start the story of your new life with a rented suit. The photos will remain forever, and when you are going to watch them again, you will regret not to have a bespoke morning suit made by measure. At the end the difference of this expense will not change your life, we are talking of 500 to 600 € additionally, compared to the 10.000 € or 20.000 € that you spend for a wedding.

If you choose the style of the classical morning suit, you should keep in mind that also the relatives and the close friends are subject to the morning dress code, wearing a morning suit. In this case renting a morning suit is justified, because they are not going to be the protagonists.

Even though, a person that has traveled the world, knows that it is not a bad idea to have a nice morning suit in the wardrobe as well as a tuxedo for special occasions, because it will pay itself off the first 3 occasions when you wear it.

Classical Morning suit

If, on the contrary, you really liked the “monochrome morning dress”, the guests and the family are free to wear a morning suit or a tailor styled suit. This type of morning suit has been inspired by the age of the end of the century.

Wedding suit

The choice of the fabric is essential for your wedding suit, because only by touch you can feel the quality of a suit, and the touch should be light and silky. To feel comfortable I suggest:

For Autumn – Winter Weddings: a weight not exceeding 380 g/m2 and a minimum of 280 g/m2.

For Spring – Summer Weddings: a cool-wool or similar fabrics due to their lightness: 280 gr/m2 that are suitable for all seasons.

It is very important to pay attention to this detail, because a bad choice can ruin such a day full of  happiness.

The color par excellence for the classical morning suit is black, but also grey or dark blue are allowed, however, you have to bear in mind that the classical style is not to be exceeded by trying to make fashion, because the morning suit was created as a classical model and is doesn’t need to be re-invented, just a touch of color is needed.

Wedding suits

For the monochrome style, the colors can be black, blue, dark grey, medium and light, Fil-a-Fil, herringbone pattern, fine stripes or diplomatic with stripes of 10 mm not too pronounced.

Wedding suitThe waistcoat is very important for the ceremony, it enables you to wear an opened jacket and you can move more comfortably. There are several options: The diplomatic, i.e., is black with white profiles.

Waistcoat

If you want a touch of color, without exceeding the rules, you can wear pearl gray or pearly white, both colors are suitable for the wedding.

Wedding suit

If you want to add a touch of British color, you can play with red, grass green, violet, blue or beige.

groom suit

If you want a touch of nobility, you can use a baroque jacquard in pure silk worldwide exclusive.

Wedding suit

Another elegant combination is the black jacket with waistcoat and trousers “hound’s-tooth”, black/white or also a “Prince of Wales”.

groom suit

The shirt can be “double twisted” cotton, smooth satin gala, fine Oxford or micro patterns, and if you want to avoid ironing, a cotton satin. Preferably double cuff for cufflinks and a classical spread collar. The wing collar could be worn with the classical morning suit, but only if it is combined with a plastron and a tie pin with a pearl or a coral cameo.

Shirt for wedding suit

The tie for the classical morning suit, except the classic plastron, will be 8.5 cm wide. For the monochrome style, you can wear a tie or an ascot in a multitude of colors: blue or black with whites micro designs, geometric pattern, micro designs in blue, grey, red, pink, violet, green, pearl, gold or light blue, although the classical are pearl grey and ivory. Black stripes on a light background are also very elegant, and an important point to keep in mind is that you should never match a wing collar with a tie.

Ties for groom suit

The suspenders are recommended, especially if you have a little belly, because they keep trousers always straight and avoid ugly creases.

For the shoes, the most appropriate model for the morning suit is the classic Oxford, in leather shiny black with laces and 6 holes, and the leather sole must be scratched to prevent slipping. I never recommend a rubber sole, because it doesn’t breathe. It would be elegant to choose shoes that have a heel half in leather and half in rubber, but with the sole entirely in leather. This is the excellence of dressing elegantly and in pure Gentleman style.

Shoes for wedding suit

If the morning suit is in the monochrome style with any type of pattern, the most appropriate shoes are the Derby models, always with the same quality characteristics of the Oxford model. With this type of morning coat, you can also use brown “testa di moro” or chocolate, which will add a touch of color without ruining the classical style.

The hat, cane and gloves are a free choice and are not rigorously required, but if you know how to wear them, they are very elegant. It’s a very English habit because the morning suit is the uniform to assist to the horse races, and the weather in the English countryside it’s cold and rainy. The tradition of wearing a hat prevails in the English culture, in fact, an Englishman never forget the bowler hat, the gloves and the umbrella in his classical clothing, but as I said, it is not strictly necessary.

Wedding suit

When you wear the top hat, you have to know that you should take it off by entering the church or when you greet a lady, but for the rest of time you have to keep it on, because if you buy it to hold it in your hands, it is useless to buy one.

Another very important detail that needs to be considered is the location and the time that the ceremony and the reception will take place. As I mentioned earlier, the morning suit is a wedding suit exclusively for weddings in the morning, that are celebrated in a church of baroque or gothic style and if the family has classical traditions the morning suit should also be worn by the father, the brothers and by the closest friends. If after the ceremony the banquet continues until night and is a cocktail party, it would be advisable to change the suit and to wear something more appropriate for the evening, like a dark suit or tuxedo with cummerbund and a bow tie.

Wedding suit

 

The real meaning of elegance

What does elegance really mean and why are there only a few men that bear it in mind day by day?

The truth is that when looking for the real significance of the word elegance, especially nowadays, is not that simple. The adjective elegant is the equivalent of charisma and class, noblesse and modesty, good taste and distinction, but it seems that men of nowadays do not have any knowledge how to dress for a formal event and only have the knowledge of the informal. This makes us think that in past times what was representative for our fathers and our grand-fathers to wear a good custom made suit, a shirt with a starched collar and a great tie, nowadays is getting lost and the great majority of men of nowadays do it only to cover themselves up and not to dress themselves.

In other occasions we have said how important it is to thoroughly pay attention to the proper image, this is why today we insist to pick up and recuperate the values of the good taste and the impeccable clothing. To have the knowledge how to dress in every moment and for every event has much more importance from what is thought. We often see on red carpets of the worldwide most important festivals from the show business like movies or the music, men that dress in an inappropriate style and completely out of place. Nobody pays attention to elegance, for such a glamorous night, it is indispensable to wear a great tuxedo with a bow tie and a cummerbund or if you want to give a touch of extravagance it should come out of your personality and not out of lack of knowledge. It is clear that to achieve to wear a tuxedo or a classical suit in an impeccable way, it is necessary to exercise the elegance, by following some indispensable rules and that not everything is valid.

Ottavio Nuccio Gala, with the collections Gentleman and Black Tie, aims at an elegant style with luxurious suits and tuxedos that are manufactured of high quality fabrics, offering to the customers a service of excellence and individuality with professionals that will give advice on the values and the rules of impeccable dressing that are appropriate for the moment and the place.

Classical suit from Ottavio Nuccio Gala Gentleman Collection

Suit in pure satin wool
Suit, dark grey, in pure extra satin wool